Hand embroidered vintage denim jacket

I have a thing for oversize silhouettes but the obsession takes a whole new meaning when it comes to Levi’s trucker jackets. This vintage denim jacket got embellished with hand-embroidery and mirror work in the Rabari style, during the months in self-isolation, resulting in something that is completely unique and very much my style.

Photos: Vincent Boyer (Say hi on instagram @shape.photos)

This Levi’s trucker jacket is from the early nineties, so about thirty years old and I have worn it non-stop for over a decade.

The self-isolation phase has been trying for many of us, my anxious thoughts took a lot of effort to quell and I needed creative ways to occupy my mind and hands. Hand-embroidery has brought me a lot of joy since I was a child and while we spent increasing amounts of time at home I dove right into complicated needlework projects.

The back and front of this jacket have been embroidered in the Rabari style of needlework and took almost two months to complete. I have written in detail about this style of embroidery in a previous blog post that you can access here.

Over the past decade, I have consciously tried my hardest to buy less, shop better and create more not only because it is good for the environment but also because it helps with my mental health.

I have accumulated a lot of stuff over the years and given a lot of it away as well but I believe I genuinely have enough to last me an entire lifetime. I absolutely don’t get tempted by fast fashion anymore but I do love handloom-ed and handcrafted textiles too much to resist them.

I haven’t bought anything new fashion-wise for almost a year now and I feel I will get to a point soon when I will be happy not buying anything non-essential at all. In the first photo I wore this jacket before embellishing it with a work horse of a handwoven saree on a trip to the highlands with my trusty palladium boots. In the second photo I am wearing the same jacket after I finished embroidering it with an Ajrakh hand blocked oversize shirt, leather shorts and an embroidered leather bag.

I am one of those people who continues to wear their shorts in the winter with summer shirts, albeit with stockings plus a merino base layer.

The embroidered tooled leather bag in the photos was made by the women of the Meghwal community from Kutch and has been in constant rotation for almost ten years now. It was first posted on my old blog here.

I have detailed below why I chose to become more conscious about my purchases and what I have done to ensure that I am buying only what I need. This is just a means to contribute to a discussion on sustainability, buying less and more consciously, while we make a determined effort to walk away from rampant consumerism.

I genuinely prefer handmade and like it even more if it is me-made: I believe handmade items are the height of luxury, craft-centric clothing is the epitome of style and traditional embellishments on modern pieces are the ultimate statement in the aesthetic I prefer.

Putting my values front and centre: By wearing ensembles that prominently feature handmade and ethical pieces predominantly made by female artisans, I am making a political statement that is centred around my belief system. I refuse to be tempted into buying what I don’t need and I refuse to be coerced into mindless consumerism to belong to a certain clique. I am me and very happy in my skin.

Sometimes finding strength in embracing our authentic selves in systems that weren’t created for us is the most radical form of activism. As a wom*n of colour, I believe that fully embracing the traditional arts and crafts of my ancestors is a way for me to draw strength and resilience from generations that came before me.

Gives me a sense of freedom: Buying less stuff means more than just saving money, it means freedom from any sort of competition with someone else and it really helps me unleash my creativity. Many of us have become so far removed from the source of what we buy that we remain blissfully unaware and deliberately unseeing of the environmental plus ethical effects of producing and disposing of it all.

Not going to malls: One of the ways I initially was able to curb any temptation to buy unnecessary things was by avoiding malls unless I needed something specific. I’d rather be out on a bushwalk than wander aimlessly in malls buying things that will add to the rubbish going into landfills.

Avoiding impulse buys: I always give my self at least 24 hours before I decide on buying something even if I really want it. I also maintain a wishlist of things I want for months and have noticed that when I revisit it I am organically able to reduce the number of items in it.

I am very critical of my consumption patterns and constantly have dialogues with myself on whether i really need something as much I think I do. Trust me, it just helps to stop hoarding stuff I have no need for.

Embracing pre-loved items: One of the simplest ways for easing into a more sustainable life-style for me has been embracing used/pre-loved and vintage items into my life. It has really unleashed the creativity and made my style just the right amount of unique mixed with a little bit crazy, just like myself.

I have found truly one-of-a-kind items from vintage stores and flea markets that I now treasure, it makes me laugh to look back at a younger me who wouldn’t touch anything second-hand.

Rejecting the concept of standard sizing: I love strong shapes and easy silhouettes that play with size and proportions in natural breathable fabric. Garment sizing is a concept that I have always consciously tried to do away with and my closet consists of every size from extra extra small to large.

I believe that not focussing on sizing and embracing different silhouettes has made my wardrobe more versatile and less season specific.

Doing away with the notion of gendered clothing: Eschewing the traditional notion of men’s and women’s wear is just the first step in acknowledging that gender is not binary. Once we do away with the ideas of clothing based antiquated ideas of masculine and feminine we stop missing out on potentially great pieces.

To be truly sustainable we need to keep items in use for as long as possible, which is more achievable when swapping or selling without the boundaries of gender; thereby keeping more clothes out of landfill.

A simple way for me to practice self-care: When I am busy creating art and craft, it is oddly therapeutic, its like me giving myself permission to play. I get to create something beautiful simply for the joy of it and no monetary calculations are involved.

Drawing or embroidery gives me the opportunity to let my mind slow down while my hands are busy at work.

Finding community: Crafting has helped me connect with a lot of like-minded individuals who are also quietly intent on slowing down and consuming less. It has helped me belong to a community that is in equal parts inspiring and inviting, which I believe makes me a better person

I have a long way to go before my lifestyle is completely sustainable but I am doing better everyday. I would love to know a little bit about your journey into a more ethical lifestyle and the steps you’ve taken toward it.

The 15 hand crafted sarees to start with for beginners

A pre-loved Adampally saree worn to spend an afternoon hiking in the forest, climbing trees and drinking chilled beers  by the water …

Photos: Vincent Boyer (Say hi on instagram @vincetravelbook)

I detest rules when it come to style and fashion but a few guidelines can be helpful to ease into wearing sarees more regularly without breaking the bank.

But that is all this post is, a list of what worked for me and I hope it sparks ideas in your mind as to what could work for you.

These 15 basic sarees can be a great starting point for you if you’re keen to wear handcrafted sarees more often. They are also all wonderful for those on a budget, every one of these can be bought for under Rs 2000/ AUD 40.

1. The various mul mul cotton block print sarees like Kalamkari, Sanganeri, Gamthi, Ajrakh, Nandana or Tarapur, Bagh and Dabu. Some examples here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here and here.
2. Sambalpuri sarees in higher thread counts are wonderful and the simpler designs can easily be found for under $40.
3. Vintage Benares or Kanjivaram silks that have softened with age and wear are great for beginners to deal with.
4. Soft Andhra cotton weaves like Mangalagiri, Venkatagiri, Narayanpeth, Adampally, Katheru, Angara, Srikakulam and Pasalapudi. Case in point here, here and here.
5. West Bengal tants like Dhonekhali or Shantipuri. These tend to be starched stiff when new but soften with multiple washes. Previous dhonekali post here and Shantipuri posts here and here.
6. Jamdani from West Bengal. I love the quintessential jamdanis from West Bengal over the elaborate Dhakai Jamdani because I like sarees I can wash at home. Here and here are previous posts featuring jamdanis.
7. Gajji silk Bandhani, they are perfectly flowy without being cumbersome and lend themselves beautifully to any drape. For previous post in gajjis click here, here and here.
8. Handspun and handwoven sarees like bawan butti or a multitude of khadis. Previous posts here and here.
9. Chequered sarees like the gamchas from West Bengal, Pathebad from Andhra, Chettinad from Tamilnadu, Udupi from Karnataka and chequered ikats like Sachipaars from Odisha. Previous posts on chequered sarees here and here.
10. Noil, it has a slightly uneven texture, is just the right kind of weight and drapes like a dream. Need I say more? Previous post in a noil saree here.
11. Nine yard cotton sarees are heaps fun as there is more fabric to play with and create wonderful drapes. Here is my previous post in a nine yard saree.
12. Any running fabric that appeals to me is made in to sarees.
13. Budget Ikat weaves like Jagatsinghpur from Odisha and Dubakka from Andhra/ Telangana are stunning to look at and hardy sarees that can be worn heaps. Previous post in a Jagatsingpur saree here.
14. Soft Phulias from West Bengal are just beyond wonderful. Previous posts here, here, here and here.
15.  The easy-breezy, soft and gauzy Kota Doria sarees are a great place to begin with if one is looking to incorporate sarees as everyday wear.

When buying sarees, I think quality, natural fabric and thread count, they don’t have to be expensive but should be well made. My every day basic sarees are worn and washed more than the show-pony pieces like Benarasis and Kanjivarams and if bought right, they will serve me for decades.

I never “settle” for how a saree feels on me, I want it to feel amazing when I wear it. A garment won’t become a wardrobe workhouse unless it feels fabulous on because one would shy away from wearing it altogether.

Just like one doesn’t give up trying to find the ultimate pair of jeans or blazer that fits and flatters, there are perfect sarees out there for each one of us.

 

Why do I wear sarees the way I do?

Immersing myself in breathtaking scenery and natural waterfalls is one of my most favourite things to do…Sometimes I do it in handcrafted sarees that make the experience even more fun.

Photos: Vincent Boyer (Say hi on instagram @vincetravelbook)

We went over to Tropical North Queensland recently and these photos were taken on a day spent exploring the rainforests, chasing waterfalls and experiencing some of the best natural swimming holes Australia has to offer. I wore an Ajrakh block print saree over my bathers to go on the adventure. There was no petticoat worn as per usual and the swimsuit top made the perfect blouse, I don’t really care that it is not an exact match.

There are many saree wearing women and men who  have been wonderful in sharing their knowledge, sources, expertise and sometimes even their six yard beauties with me. I am forever grateful to them and love interacting with them online.

However, I have also been asked a lot of asinine questions by random strangers here on my blog and on my instagram in all manner of ways, some curious, some polite, some territorial and some downright obnoxious.

Normally I just delete the comment or block the person depending on how nasty or abusive their comment is. This post however answers some of the weird questions/ comments I get for wearing the saree. These are literally the exact words typed to me or someone else close to me.

If you don’t like opinionated women who use strong/ coarse language, this is the time to look away.

1. Don’t you think you could have worn the saree a little higher or a little more modestly?

Bitch please! I’ve worn the saree this way and posted the photos online, do you really think your stupid, passive aggressive bullshit will make me question myself? Eff off!

    2. Why does she wear jamdanis with sneakers and jump around so much? I wouldn’t be able to do it.

Exactly auntyji! Aap se nahin ho payega. One, you limit the saree with your regressive thinking, two, you have no imagination and three, you’re too ungainly. So take your judginess elsewhere. What footwear I wear with the unstitched cloth is my business!

    3. She’s so bold naah? (Btw WTF is bold? I mean seriously its 2018.)

Yes, I am bold and ferocious. Apparently much more so than you. Do you know what you’re doing is using a positive word in a slut shamey/ body shamey way? Go home and read about how women like you internalise misogyny.

   4. I don’t like. Why you wear the sadi like this?

I don’t remember asking for your opinion?! If you don’t like it/me, look away. Its that simple! I wear my sarees the way I want, now go be your ignorant self elsewhere.

   5. Why you wear saree if you don’t be with Hindu boy?

One, none of your business who I am with. Two, I wear sarees because they are fun and not because I am trying to be a good Hindu. My faith is my own and won’t be plastered online. Also, please take a look at your grammar and/ or spelling before you hit post!

   6. Are you too poor to get proper saree blouses made?

Are you too stupid to understand women can wear whatever they want?

  7. Why don’t you wear make-up and/or show your face?

Because this blog is about sarees, not my face with or without make-up. Now, why don’t you go educate yourself about the perils of asking redundant questions?

  8. Why did you say no to a collab with me/ my brand?

Because I am not here to sell sarees. If I mention a brand, it is because I have high regard for them, not because they gave me a saree or offered to pay me for a post. I choose to be picky and don’t partner with everyone that asks. I refuse to be the person who just posts to shove a brand down their readers throat.

  9. How do you pee/ poop in a saree?

Are you f**king kidding me? Just like the women in your family have for generations. Now go annoy your mother with this question.

 10. How can you say nine yard sarees are fun? Do you even really wear them or is it just to attract attention?

I actually think that nine yard sarees are heaps fun and the extra fabric is great to play with. Yes, I really wear them a lot just like women before me have for centuries. Please take your idiocy elsewhere.

  11. How can you talk about wearing sarees on this blog and instagram and then have pictures in bathing suits on your other blog and instagram?

Are you for real? I didn’t know one couldn’t wear sarees as well as swimsuits. Its simple really, if I go swimming I wear a swimsuit and when I want to drape my six yards I do so. Now you do something actually useful with your time!

These are just some of the gems that come my way and I am sure a lot of women with an online presence get this and much more. I wish 2018 is the year when the world finally realises that women just get to be who they want and that the saree has no religion.

 

Travel outfits that include sarees

Want to travel in a saree? Read on to find out how I manage to gallivant around the world in my six and nine yard drapes …

Photos: Vincent Boyer (Say hi on instagram @vincetravelbook)

A few months ago, I went to Europe and met an amazing lady in Amsterdam ( Hey Koel!)who gave me this beauty of an Ajrakh saree that I treasure and wore non-stop on the trip. Here I have worn the saree in a little village in Picardie with an oft repeated top that you have seen worn in France here and here.

I get asked very often how and why I incorporate sarees on my travels across different parts of the world. Travelling is fun and dressing up while exploring a new country is even more fun. Do I just wear sarees when I travel? No! Do I wear sarees as frequently as my heart desires, travel or no travel? Hell yeah!

I am not looking to exude sophistication while I am on the go. I like to wear what makes me happy as well as be comfortable and I really believe that one needs way less than one thinks during travel.

I think every person is different but because I have been asked this question very often, here’s a list of what I do to travel with ease in my six and nine yard beauties:

1. I carry comfortable, often used clothing when I travel and that extends to my sarees as well. I am not one of those people who buys new clothes to travel.
2. I absolutely abhor the petticoat (underskirt) on normal days and there is no way I will wear one while travelling. Using denims and other skirts/ shorts/ pants I already am carrying saves space in my suitcase.
3. I don’t mind wearing lighter/ translucent sarees without a full-length skirt underneath. However, if that is something you would rather not do, I would suggest carrying darker colours or thicker drapes that offer the coverage you want.
4. It’s fun to get creative and use the same item of clothing in different ways and pair it with multiple pieces in the suitcase. Like versatile tops make great saree blouses, skater skirts make great tops and my cotton six yard stunners make great beach cover-ups.
5. I would suggest not worrying about the perfect pleats or pallu, just concentrate on being comfortable and having fun.
6. I never ever use safety-pins. Knots, pleats and tucks work way better than something that is likely to jab me while I nap on the train!
7. Ignore people who say sarees should always be worn with heels. I carry four to five comfortable pairs of shoes that go with everything I wear. You will see me wearing the same shoes with jeans or skirts or sarees.
8. The same goes for my bags, saree or no saree I carry bags that are roomy without being too bulky. I don’t have the space in my suitcase or patience to have a different bag for every outfit.
9. Also, likewise for jackets. I wear my sarees with leather, denim or wool jackets/ cover-ups. Every piece of clothing I carry goes with at least four different things in my suitcase.
10. I also don’t worry about carrying the right kind of jewellery for sarees or any other outfits. I carry a mad bunch of silver and beaded jewellery that I love to wear and don’t care about being matchy-matchy.
11. Instead of carrying a whole heap of sarees, I change the way I drape, switch the tops and style the same ones differently. This same saree was worn with a Metallica tee-shirt while bumming around Paris and on the Metro with our luggage.
12. If you are not comfortable with different drapes, I would suggest playing with the length of the saree to ensure comfort and enable movement.
13. Avoid trailing pallus, I normally wrap mine like a scarf around my neck to keep it out of the way when rushing about.
14. I spot clean my sarees and hand-wash and dry them in the bathroom after three to four wears. There is nothing more annoying than taking dry-clean only sarees and search frantically for a dhobi during a trip.
15. I don’t think of a saree any differently than any other item of clothing, just wear them when I want to and do just fine.

And for those of you wondering why I wear sarees during my travels … I wear what I want, when I want, where I want and how I want.

I have never not carried a few sarees while travelling and really don’t think it is a big deal to travel in sarees. My Mother and GrandMother as well as countless other women from the sub-continent have traipesed across the globe in their sarees and I am just following in their foot-steps.

That is it – this is how I travel in sarees and it works for me. What are your travel outfit essentials?